This large silk kinran brocade Buddhist altar cloth is truly exceptional. Its repeating motifs of roundel dragons and cloud designs woven with silk and gold threads showcase remarkable craftsmanship. Dating back to the 6th year of the Kansei reign (1789), this cloth is the oldest dated Japanese textile we have encountered. Photographing it has been a challenge due to the reflective nature of the wide gold threads, which give it a different appearance based on lighting and angle.

The textile's design features dragons, symbols of power and fortune, brought to Japan from India via China with the advent of Buddhism. Dragons were revered protectors of Buddhist law, a belief reflected in temple structures and names in Japan. This panel likely portrays the 'unryu' or Cloud Dragon, associated with the East, spring, wood element, and the Emperor's power.

The cloth's construction involves a burgundy plain-weave fabric overlaid with supplementary gold-leafed paper and silk threads forming the dragon and cloud patterns against the gold background. 'Kinran' fabric, named after its gold-threaded brocade, originated in China and was refined in Japan, initially used in Noh theatre costumes before being adopted in temples for kesa and altar cloths.

The intricate gold threads, made of pure 24-carat gold hammered foil lacquered to fine mulberry tree bark paper, were meticulously cut into strips and hand-woven as weft on a loom. Despite the fraying and oxidation of some black threads, this textile's appearance and strength remain remarkably preserved, testament to its enduring quality and exceptional artistry.

This artwork is featured on pages 98-101 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.

‍