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This uchikake, a finely crafted rinzu (figured silk) wedding robe, showcases motifs from the renowned Noh play 'Hagomoro' (The Feathered Robe). The base features tiny interlocking diamond figures, lightly padded with a thickly-padded hem. Its inner lining displays a red-orange hue dyed with beni extracted from safflowers. Measuring 48 inches (122 cm) along the shoulders and standing at a height of 60 inches (152 cm), this robe captures the legend of Hakuryo, a poor fisherman who discovers the magical Hagomoro feather-robe embroidered with gold hanging on a pine branch near Miho's Matsubara Beach. The legend unfolds as the fisherman takes possession of the robe, confronting a Tenyyo, a female Buddhist immortal who needs the robe to return to heaven. Eventually, after a celestial dance, she ascends, fulfilling her promise.
The significance of incorporating this legend into a wedding robe dates back to the Buddhist shrine near Matsubara Beach, known for harmonizing married couples amid spring cherry blossoms. An intriguing absence in this robe is the absence of family crests, unlike the typical five mon found on wedding robes. This deviation parallels stage costumes from kabuki, lacking family crests but emphasizing motifs through thick silk and robust embroidery, designed for distant viewer impressions. While this uchikake might resemble a Tayuu (elite geisha from Kyoto) robe, further research is required.
The scene depicted on this robe likely portrays Hakuryo's awe upon discovering the magical feather robe near the seashore on a star-filled night. The artist's meticulous use of refined gold-covered couching, embroidery, and painting underscores the extraordinary artistry and refinement of this garment.