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This exquisite early batik shoulder-cloth was hand-drawn in Lasem, located on the north coast of Java, by Peranakan Chinese batik-makers. It closely follows the style and format of the typical Indo-Chinese sarong of that period. The design features four repetitions of a flowering tree sweeping to the left, a subtle departure from the usual symmetrical tree, gracefully guiding the eye's movement with a hovering bird and butterfly at its tips.
The composition maintains its balance, with upward-reaching star-shaped leaves echoing the stamens of the flowers. Vivid red flowers provide a striking accent amid the rich and subdued color palette of red-brown, sea green, and cerulean blue. The geometric end panels recreate the traditional head panel of the sarong, featuring a row of alternate short and tall upright triangles joined at the points to form a grid of diamonds between them.
This batik presents a collage of motifs that, despite its typically crowded format, exudes remarkable harmony and gentleness. The basketwork motif forming the background exhibits a remarkable lightness of touch, complementing the rich tones of the natural red-brown, which adds depth to the design.
While the color composition suggests an intended audience in the large export market of Sumatra or Malaysia, this piece stands out for its finely drawn motifs on high-quality cotton, possibly indicating it was a specially commissioned work. Originating from the workshops of the Peranakan Chinese batik makers in Lasem, known for their high quality, this batik reflects the heyday of north coast Chinese batik on Java.
The design format of this shoulder-cloth encapsulates the evolution of traditional sarong design, highlighting the development and origins of the showpiece of north coast batik. In excellent condition, with no holes, stains, or tears, the cloth boasts rich, deep colors, with slight light fading of the blue in one end panel. The cotton is of the finest quality, smooth, waxy, crisp, and cool to the touch.