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This superior yuzen-dyed silk fukusa showcases two Heian period courtiers and a boy, with intricately embroidered highlights like tiny flowers. It's in very good condition, measuring 20 inches by 22 inches (51 cm x 56 cm).
The Heian period, often termed "the golden age," spanned from the 9th to the 12th centuries, preceding the era of shoguns and samurai. It was characterized by relative peace, stability, and a centralized government in Kyoto led by the emperor and court aristocracy. During this time, the courtiers in Kyoto valued poetry, music, and the arts as paramount achievements, defining what it meant to be a "good" person.
Their dominance in aesthetic matters produced art and literature that profoundly influenced Japanese society for centuries, including the Meiji period, to which this fukusa dates. The opulent costumes worn by the Heian aristocracy continue to be admired in modern Japan.
Courtiers during this era held the belief that the naked body was unattractive. They admired a rounded, plump figure, favoring round and puffy faces. Layered clothing, inseparable from the body, was a significant part of their appearance and expression of taste. The choice of colors in clothing was a statement of one's artistic sensibilities, and wearing inappropriate colors for the season or mismatched combinations could harm one's reputation.
The courtiers depicted on this fukusa are adorned with tall caps called 'eboshi,' crafted from black silk gauze stiffened with a black lacquered paper lining, representing a distinctive element of their attire.