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This stunning Peranakan Chinese sarong showcases four bouquets featuring poppies, spray carnations, and lilies in a delightful, summery color scheme. The violet blossoms appear cool, while the peach ones add a light touch to the cerise body. In the aquamarine head panel (kepala), the colors deepen, highlighting the whites and enhancing the sparkling effect with starflowers. Each flower, drawn in two shades of the main color, creates a sense of light falling on them, while the petals are adorned with intricate lines of minute white dots in the Kedungwuni style. This meticulous detail work, perfected by the finest Chinese batik-makers in the early 20th century, contributes to a rich 3-dimensional effect, especially visible in the peach leaves and the white outlines.
The leaves, detailed with feathery motifs, resemble crisp ferns—a style popularized by E. van Zuylen. The overall design is vibrant and dynamic, showcasing fluent and clear drawing with lively movement. A garland of small flowers adorns the upper and lower borders as well as those between the kepala and the body. The hand-drawn signature "M. d. van Zuylen / Oey Kok Hwa" graces the upper left corner of the kepala.
This vivacious batik stands out for its unique color composition, precise detailing, and excellent condition. It reflects the adaptation of the buketan design by Peranakan Chinese batik-makers, who adopted and transformed the style developed by Indo-European batik artisans with different colors and more complex filler motifs. In the early 20th century, Chinese batik was celebrated for its intense detail, rich colors, and exceptional craftsmanship, particularly in sarongs displaying dramatic contrasts between body and kepala, such as this piece.
Imported as premium clothing for affluent Peranakan Chinese across the Malay archipelago, this sarong embodies daring color combinations and outstanding craftsmanship. The initials "M. d." denote "model dari" (modeled after), acknowledging the influence of Indo-European batik-maker Eliza van Zuylen. Crafted by Oey Mho Hie, a member of one of Java's most renowned Chinese batik-making families, this sarong bears the signature of his niece who resided with the family.
In excellent condition, with barely visible age marks and two tiny 2 mm holes, this sarong features fine, smooth cotton, offering a cool touch with a firm body and crisp texture. The colors remain bright, fresh, and radiant. It measures 43 inches (109 cm) in height and 43 inches (109 cm) in width (86 inches unstitched).