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This sarong is a rare, hand-drawn silk batik originating from Juana or Rembang on East Java's north coast. Its standout motif is the lokcan bird, depicted in indigo blue top-dyed with reddish-brown kayu tinggi on an ivory ground. The piece radiates the intense, dramatic character distinctive to this ancient style of batik.
The lokcan motif, associated with the Chinese phoenix, is depicted with majestic grandeur: large lokcan in each half of the cloth boast three long tails, broad wings, intricately detailed bodies, and a crown-like crest. Accompanying smaller lokcan, resembling additional wings, are surrounded by a diverse array of floral motifs—carnations, passion fruit, various flowers, and small round fruits.
The sarong, formed by joining two pieces of silk along the selvedge before the batik process, is divided by a traditional head panel (kepala) of alternating short and tall triangles, forming a geometric pattern around a central column of diamonds. These sections are filled with diverse motifs, framed by wide borders featuring more lokcan and passion fruit.
An intriguing feature is the ren (thorns), adding a sharp, striking character to the design, complementing the solid forms and curves of the motifs. A personal touch is found in the tiny Arabic script penned by the owner around one carnation motif.
This splendid example of silk batik sarong, with its fine, strong lines and rich detail, is an exceptional representation of the lokcan genre, known for its association with the phoenix motif. Originating from Juana and Rembang, these silk sarongs were favored by the local Chinese communities (Peranakan) who valued silk's refinement. Popular in the late 19th century, these sarongs were worn on the north coast of Java and often exported to Lampung in Sumatra and Bali for ceremonial or dance costumes.
Despite minor damage—such as holes at the edges, faint stains, and loose seams—typical due to silk's fragility, this textile remains in excellent condition. The deep blue-black kayu tinggi, golden-toned brown, and dark ivory ground contribute to its remarkable appearance. The silk itself is heavy, soft, and thick, boasting a smooth, cool texture, a liquid drape, and a gentle luster. It measures 59 inches by 37 inches (150 cm x 94 cm).