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This opulent ceremonial headcloth (iket kepala) hails from Palembang in south Sumatra, renowned for its lavish textiles, particularly the fusion of supplementary gold weaving (songket) over silk weft ikat (limar). The central ikat field is bordered by red panels adorned with songket rosettes, boxed stars, and vibrant embroidered silk flowers. Gleaming double borders of star and X motifs add a luxurious formality to the piece, accented by unique architectural motifs at the corners. The refined supplementary weaving using the highest grade gold thread (mas jantong) retains its color, luster, and shine impeccably over time.
The centerfield contrasts soft ikat patterns with the sharp brightness of the songket borders, showcasing a premium four-color ikat with cherry red, hints of orange and violet-blue on a rare, beautiful green ground. The 8-petalled rosettes, reminiscent of Indian patola silk textiles, create a captivating effect. An intriguing aspect is the scattered gold motifs across one corner of the centerfield, intended for display when wrapped around the head, adding dynamism to the square format.
This remarkable headcloth, in excellent condition, epitomizes the rich, timeless beauty of limar songket. Palembang's history of political power and multicultural influences from its strategic location on Sumatra's southeast coast made it a pivotal trade hub through the Straits of Malacca. The cloth's design draws inspiration from the Indian silk patola textiles, adapting their format and 8-pointed star pattern.
The textile symbolizes the wealth and prestige of Palembang's affluent class, worn at lavish feasts that astonished 19th-century European travelers. The enduring appeal of the patola star resonates philosophically with its arrangement of 8 directions around a central point. The textile's metallic-threaded appearance was significant in later Islamicized cultures, reflecting the courtly arts of empires like the Mughal and Ottoman, employing lavish songket embroidery reminiscent of Indian and Turkish imports.
This piece, in remarkably fresh condition, showcases vivid and glowing colors—rich reds, lively violets, deep oranges, and a rare, stunning green that varies in tone depending on the light. The untarnished, warm yellow gold thread retains its fine luster. The silk, slightly stiff and heavy, boasts a gleaming sheen and nubbly texture. It has been delicately attached to a soft gray gauze, likely for framing, partially loose along one edge.
An almost flawless and truly exquisite piece of Palembang limar songket, measuring 35 inches by 35 inches (89 cm x 89 cm), perfect for enhancing any collection, presenting an elegant display.