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This rinzu silk furisode is quite unique, adorned with yuzen-painted motifs on a large quadrated background, featuring satin-stitch embroidery, metallic couching, and gold foil. With five mon, it stands as the most formal of kimonos and, with its double inner lining, likely designed for winter wear. There are a few tiny tears on the shoulder. Measuring 49 inches from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and towering at 68 inches in height (124 cm x 173 cm), it's notably tall.
The motifs on this kimono include various musical instruments used in 'Gagaku,' the traditional Japanese music and dance. Interestingly, its graphic quadrated color background mirrors certain Edo period Noh theatre robes, and its exceptional height suggests a purpose beyond everyday wear. It's likely crafted for theatrical or dance performances, where the trailing hem would grace the stage floor.
This artwork is featured on pages 348-349 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.