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This stunning rinzu silk uchikake commands attention with its grandeur and intricate details. Measuring approximately 51 inches (130 cm) from sleeve-end to sleeve-end and standing at a height of 66 inches (168 cm), this uchikake features elaborate 'kai-oke' (clam shell container) and painted shell motifs meticulously adorned with sophisticated yuzen-painting and embroidery. Crafted by highly skilled artisans, the level of detail in this piece speaks volumes about its quality.
The painted clam shells and 'kai-awase' game references harken back to a popular aristocratic pastime during Japan's Heian classical period. This game involved pairing identical miniature paintings on bivalve shells, often based on scenes from classical literature like the "Tale of Genji." The game, a memory test and a symbol of marital fidelity, featured 360 shells and was associated with loyalty in marriage.
This uchikake carries themes of marital fidelity, auspiciousness, and longevity—expressed through motifs like flying bamboo, symbolizing good luck and long life, which are commonly found in matrimonial artworks. The unique white figured silk background, an uncommon choice for yuzen-painted uchikake, beautifully contrasts with the pastel-colored motifs, elevating the robe's overall visual impact and elegance.
This artwork is featured on pages 346-347 of Ceremonial Textiles of Japan, 18th to 20th Centuries. This book, published by Yorke Antique Textiles, can be previewed or purchased on our website here.